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Where to Eat in 2024



Where to find the best food around the world in 2024

There’s a big world of food out there and it’s never been easier to taste all of it. For the right price, the modern travel industry can ferry you to nearly any food scene on Earth in a matter of hours, and once you arrive, technology makes it seamless to find a serviceable restaurant, translate a menu, and examine photos of dishes before ordering. Suddenly it feels like every cuisine is at the tip of our tastebuds all the time — an immense amount of info to parse, making it a full-time job just to plan a weekend getaway. It’s so much, in fact, that people are resorting to asking AI to write their itineraries and “set-jetting” to locations in their favorite shows, looking for any sort of guidance through the noise. Or they could do what we do: Ask a local what’s good to eat right now.

All 12 culinary destinations on this list are hitting their strides in 2024, according to our global network of on-the-ground contributors, making them obvious choices for hungry travelers. This is the year chefs in Udon Thani, Thailand, steal the spotlight from Bangkok with spicy-sour Isan cooking, the year Cairo’s contemporary restaurants redefine the ancient capital with modern takes on traditional Egyptian dishes, the year street vendors fuel a buzzing reggaeton scene in Medellín, Colombia. Among our intrepid team of expert locals this year? You, Eater readers, who have cemented Milwaukee as one of the buzziest dining scenes in the U.S. in our first-ever readers choice on the Where to Eat list.

So pack a bag, get hungry, and jump right into the maps and stories below — but consider all this the first course in a long feast. Eater will spend the next six months rolling out additional restaurant guides and features that continue to show why the places on our list belong on yours, too. Whether you visit during a snowy après-ski season in Vorarlberg, Austria, or enjoy a blissful summer of seafood on the Turkish Riviera, here’s your easy, no-fuss, crystal clear guide to where you should eat this year. — Nick Mancall-Bitel


A pile of shucked oysters in a blue plastic basket.
Fresh oysters on display in Haenyeo Chon.

BUSAN, SOUTH KOREA

Busan exists at a crossroads. South Korea’s second-largest city after Seoul, and one of the largest ports in the world, sits at the intersection of the Nakdong River and the Korea Strait, bringing in a steady stream of fresh seafood and international trade. It’s also a cultural hub, welcoming tourists for a myriad of annual events like the Busan International Film Festival and Busan Biennale. The combo of food, fun, and surf has earned the city nicknames like the Miami of South Korea.

As K-culture takes over the world, Busan has come to a metaphorical crossroads of its own, ready to claim its place as a global food capital alongside Seoul, especially with the arrival of the Michelin Guide in 2024. Along the stunning coastline, seafood-centric villages serve a briny array of fish, crab, eel, anchovies, sea pineapple, conch, and urchin, while regional dishes like milmyeon (wheat noodles) and dwaeji gukbap (pork soup) surprise visitors with bold seasonings. The city’s time as a capital during the Korean War has also shaped its cuisine, fueling the growth of areas like Gukje, one of the country’s largest markets. But the city is unabashedly modern too, attracting waves of coffee nerds to burgeoning specialty cafes and propelling young chefs to capture new sides of the historic cuisine. — Matty Kim

Chefs Sell Seafood by the Seashore

Along with quirky lighthouses, the coastline around Busan is dotted with fishing villages and markets, where vendors lure customers with the freshest catch. They make for great day trips from the city center.

Jagalchi Market

15-25 minutes from Busan Station

On the first floor of South Korea’s largest fish market (and the streets outside), vendors hawk a wide array of ocean creatures, while the second floor contains restaurants preparing elaborate seafood meals.

Taejongdae Jogae Gui Chon

40-60 minutes from Busan Station

Grilled clams are the dish of choice at the collection of stalls just outside Taejongdae Park, perfect for refueling after exploring the cliffside paths and other tourist attractions.

Gijang Haenyeo Chon

60-90 minutes from Busan Station

Named for haenyeo, women divers who collect shellfish off the coast, this village is well-known for its platters of fresh and live seafood, including some especially wriggly octopus.

A vendor in a wide-brimmed hat sits among seafood prep equipment on a sunny day in front of seafood-vending stalls.
Haenyeo Chon storefronts.
Diners sit around a platter of various seafood items and drinks.
Diners enjoy midday seafood platters.

A chef uses a towel to hold a hot skillet of scrambled eggs, meat, tomato, and herbs. 
Baked eggs glaya with pastrami at Khufu’s.

CAIRO, EGYPT

Better known worldwide for its ancient sites dating back over 4,000 years, Cairo has struggled to gain recognition as a contemporary destination. But the traditional tourist itinerary, heavy on historical wonders, barely scratches the surface of Egypt’s bustling capital. Luckily, that particular reputation is finally giving way to a new one, partly thanks to the food scene.

As Egypt experiences a massive population boom, Cairo’s residents are creating new connections across communities through TikTok and other platforms. Young diners rollerblade into old-school downtown eateries that have been serving classic Egyptian dishes since the ’50s. Once part of more insular immigrant food communities, Filipino bakers and Ethiopian cooks increasingly share pandesal and injera platters with wider audiences. And, while Cairo is still recognized as a destination for affordable street food, the high-end dining scene has burst out of luxury hotels and into upscale malls in growing parts of town like New Cairo and Sheikh Zayed, restaurants like Reif Kushiyaki from Dubai increasingly choose Cairo to expand their operations, and Cairo Food Week attracts international stars like Massimo Bottura.

As Egyptian designers, entrepreneurs, and artists create new works for a modern Cairo, chefs are pulling out all the stops to prove the city is more than ancient history. — Laila Hassaballa and Mariam Nezar

Eat This

At home, Egyptians eat salata baladi (tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, onions, herbs). On the streets, they drink it. Some restaurants compose welcome shots of “whiskey” by gathering dressing from prepared salads. Fee sahetek! Cheers!

Look for This

Cairo’s baladi deliverers weave through traffic on bicycles while balancing large trays of bread on their heads, supplying baked goods to vendors all over the city.

Drink This

Vegan travelers should keep one word in mind when communicating at restaurants: “seyami.” Coptic Christians use the phrase, meaning “fasting-friendly,” while abstaining from animal products for much of the year.

A chef holds two dishes in a restaurant kitchen while surrounded by his team. 
Chef Mostafa Seif and team at Khufu’s.
A variety of dishes is presented in copper pans and earthenware bowls, displayed on a stone table.
Mixed meze plates at Khufu’s.

Slices of roasted octopus tentacles in a pool of white sauce and topped with a stack of shredded vegetables. 
Wood-fired Çeşme octopus with fermented pomegranate syrup at Od Urla.

İZMIR, TURKEY

Right as you step off the plane at the İzmir airport, you’re hit by the smells of the Aegean and pine trees. The İzmir province and eponymous city are the gateway to the resorts of the Çeşme Peninsula, where the jet set dine on Turkey’s freshest seafood, and farm-to-table restaurants intertwine with stylish beach clubs. Mornings begin with lively fish auctions in towns like Urla, while the markets in Alaçatı overflow with produce made vibrant by the Turkish Riviera sunshine.

The setting has proven irresistible to Turkey’s young chefs, who have been gravitating toward the coastline, turning villages into international travel destinations, and drawing on regional foodways while strengthening local economies. With the Michelin Guide’s arrival in İzmir (and Bodrum down the coast) in 2023, the country’s culinary attention has finally shifted beyond the capital.

Start with an Aegean home-cooked meal among olive trees at family-run Asma Yaprağı. Then tour the Urla Vineyard Route, where centuries-old indigenous grapes are generating modern hype. Choosing dinner is a challenge, so reserve a night each at Od Urla, Vino Locale, Teruar Urla, and Amavi, all known for impeccable meals drawn from the sea and land. Spend long enough walking the cobblestone streets, and you may end up staying well past your planned vacation. — Tuba Şatana

What Grows Together, Goes Together

The best pairing for a meal on the Turkish Riviera is a bottle of local wine. Here are a few native grape varieties to look out for.

Foça karası

This sooty, medium-tannic red has notes of cherry, black plum, strawberry, and clove. Though the grape is used in a few blends around Turkey, winery Öküzgözü Şarapçılık produces reds entirely with foça karası.

Bornova misketi

With floral aromas and citrusy flavors, this crisp muscat variety ends on a long, fruity finish. It shows up in both dry and sweet wines, including bottles from Usca, Urla Şarapçılık, İkidenizarası, Nif, and Sevilen.

Urla karası

A vibrant, tannic, acidic powerhouse, this grape delivers flavors of blueberry, blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate, and clove. Look for it at Urla Şarapçılık, which combines it with nero d’Avola.

A picturesque outdoor patio with natural-wood seating set beside an exposed-stone wall and surrounded by greenery.
Outside Vino Locale restaurant.
Chefs working in an open kitchen.
Chef Osman Sezener and team at Od Urla.

A diner holds a spoon next to a serving of flan with a few large bites taken out. 
Flan de caramelo at Sambombi Bistró.

MEDELLÍN, COLOMBIA

Over the last two decades, the City of Eternal Spring has blossomed into one of Latin America’s biggest cultural hubs, alongside Mexico City and Buenos Aires. To attract international visitors and digital nomads, some rising cities snuff out pieces of local culture in favor of bland metropolitan attractions; Medellín, by contrast, has come to look more like itself as it has grown more popular. Cable cars and escalators tie neighborhoods together and ferry tour groups who come to gawk at the city’s beautiful graffiti. The raucous late-night scene attracts music lovers to the so-called reggaeton capital of the world. And, though the potential for gentrification is real, young entrepreneurs are committed to highlighting local products and makers.

The city’s dining scene has evolved in parallel. Chefs like Carmen Angel and Rob Pevitts of Carmen and Jhon Zárate of Sambombi utilize endemic ingredients and modern culinary techniques to reflect contemporary Colombian identities. Unlike Bogotá, Medellín boasts a bustling street food scene, including buñuelos (cheesy fried dough balls), decadent perras (hot dogs), and a huge variety of arepas. With local coffee beans showing out in third-wave cafes and Paisa regional pride coming through in cazuela de frijoles (bean stew), Medellín’s flavors are entirely its own. — Liliana López Sorzano

A chef stands in a kitchen, laughing.
Chef Ana Valentina Mejía at Sambombi Bistró.

Pay Homage in the Reggaeton Capital

Though reggaeton is often associated with Panama (its birthplace) or Puerto Rico (its glow-up), Medellín made the genre its own with an expansive music scene, including stars like J Balvin, Maluma, and Karol G. Here’s how to spend a night out.

Listen to This

Before you visit Perro Negro (Black Dog), an iconic reggaeton venue, listen to Puerto Rican artist Bad Bunny honor the club in a collab with Medellín-born Feid. Click for the full playlist.

Raise a toast

Sold by the bottle or carton, aguardiente is the anise-flavored spirit of choice in reggaeton clubs.

Dance and dine

Vendors perch on street corners near popular dance spots, distributing warm empanadas to partyers as they emerge into the morning.

Get the look

Streetwear, asymmetrical cuts, and flashy accessories are all the fashion. Try local brands like True, Trece, and Desatín.


Sliced sausages, french fries, pickles, and dipping sauces fill a butcher board. 
The butcher board at the Vanguard.

READERS CHOICE

MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN

This isn’t the first time Milwaukee has appeared on Eater’s Where to Eat list. The city was featured in 2020, poised to break out of the Rust Belt with a swell of buzzy restaurants, just as the Democratic National Convention booked the new Fiserv Forum, the title-favorite Bucks had MVP Giannis Antetokounmpo, and expectations filled the air like yeast floating from the city’s breweries. Then everything screeched to a halt in early March, restaurants and bars went dark, and — well, you know the rest.

Then, in late 2023, Eater asked its readers which great dining scene in the U.S. deserved a spot on this list. The answer, resoundingly, was Milwaukee, a reflection of residents’ tireless work toward a second shot. Hot spots like Adam Siegel’s Lupi & Iris have snagged award nominations; favorites like Odd Duck, Bavette la Boucherie, and Taqueria la Guelaguetza got new spaces; young businesses like Flour Girl & Flame and Taqwa’s joined the ranks; and even Zócalo Food Park got an upgrade. Now, Milwaukee is set to welcome another national political convention (the Republicans this time), Top Chef is shooting Season 21 in the city, and the Bucks have notched a championship (Antetokounmpo even opened his own restaurant). After four years, there’s little left to prove. So grab some glistening cheese curds and a High Life. It’s party time. — Todd Lazarski

Read more about how Milwaukee won Eater’s reader vote

Oysters served in a decorative tray. 
Oysters at Odd Duck.
The Milwaukee skyline, as seen from the waters of Lake Michigan.
Milwaukee’s skyline looking bright.

A street-level view looking up at the Tsūtenkaku tower.
The Tsūtenkaku tower looms over Shinsekai.

OSAKA, JAPAN

There’s a common phrase in Osaka: kuidaore, or “eat yourself to ruin.” It gets at the city’s reputation for gregarious indulgence. Compared to refined dining in Tokyo and Kyoto, Osaka is like their gritty, punkish sister who revels in food with a lust for life. After dropping its last pandemic-era border rules in 2023, Japan has fully reopened to international tourism (including nonstop flights to Osaka from multiple North American cities); there’s no better place than Osaka for food lovers to revenge-eat their way through specialties like okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and takaida-kei ramen.

Osaka’s casual vibe doesn’t stop it from competing on a high level. In the 2023 Michelin Guide, 94 restaurants in the city received stars, including many by young chefs like kappo cuisine expert Akemi Nakamura, who leads an all-female staff at Nishitemma Nakamura; others, like Bib Gourmand winner Jibundoki, celebrate Osakan specialties like okonomiyaki. Still, some of the city’s best meals are its most affordable. The streets are lined with dishes that go for less than $10, ideally enjoyed on a food crawl through dozens of stalls in the retro-futuristic Shinsekai and Dotonbori districts. Follow your nose to a counter with a smoky charcoal grill, raise a whisky highball, and kuidaore until the early morning. — La Carmina

Eat This

Osaka historically consumes most of Japan’s fugu, the pufferfish that’s deadly when prepared incorrectly. Fugu is available at both more affordable spots and Michelin-starred restaurants.

Listen to This

Alt rock band Shonen Knife, which emerged from Osaka in the 1980s, has become known for songs about food like “Ramen Rock,” “Green Tea,” and “I Wanna Eat Chocobars.” Click for the full playlist.

Drink This

Osaka is known for its no-holds-barred, immersive theme bars. Grab a drink in the fetish-themed Farplane, the submarine-like Shinka, or Victorian horror-filled Kinguu.

A worker ladles vegetables and broth into a metal bowl. 
Offal nabe hot pot at Tatsuya.
A cake topped with a swirl of whipped cream, presented in a metal coupe glass alongside a coffee mug.
Cream caramel at Sennariya Coffee.

A plate of lettuce topped with walnuts, apple slices, grapes, and cheese. 
Waldorf salad at My Loup.

PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

When Philadelphia restaurants dominated the 2023 James Beard Foundation Awards — winning for outstanding restaurant (Friday Saturday Sunday), outstanding restaurateur (Ellen Yin of High Street Hospitality), and best chef: mid-Atlantic (Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon of Kalaya) — it finally killed the longtime narrative that limited the city to greasy cheesesteaks, soft pretzels, and water ice. Anyone who doubted the City of Brotherly Love and Sisterly Affection was left wondering how Philly became the dining scene to beat.

Locals saw this epic victory coming; it was the result of a subtle yet momentous culinary revolution that had been growing for years. In other cities, restaurants develop in one particular area or thanks to one restaurateur, but in Philly, the restaurant community came together, neighborhood by neighborhood, brick by brick, plate by plate. French attraction My Loup emerges with grandeur in Rittenhouse Square, while Black-owned neighborhood restaurant Honeysuckle Provisions impresses in West Philly (both were among Eater’s Best New Restaurants in 2023). Mission-driven hot spot Down North Pizza in North Philly finds its match in the remarkable veggie-forward sensation Kiddo in Midtown Village. From cozy BYOBs to exquisite prix fixe menus, Philly may be surprising out-of-towners with individual, award-winning restaurants, but the making of the modern food scene has been an intentional, citywide endeavor. — Ernest Owens

Read more about how Philly built a winning scene

A chef drizzles red sauce onto a hunk of fried chicken. 
Fried chicken with grits and eggs at Honeysuckle Provisions.

Where (and What) to BYOB

Philly’s liquor licenses are notoriously expensive; as a result, many restaurants forgo a bar and allow diners to bring their own wine and spirits, often without corkage fees. Here are some of the city’s best restaurants for BYOB (bring your own bottle).

Apricot Stone

This cozy restaurant in Northern Liberties serves a fusion of Mediterranean, Armenian, and Levantine flavors. A chillable red, such as xinomavro from Greece, perfectly complements the lamb kebabs and fattoush salad.

Gabriella’s Vietnam

East Passyunk hasn’t been the same since this Vietnamese restaurant started serving exceptional water fern dumplings and shaken beef, perfectly paired with a Thai Singha, pinot bianco, or chardonnay.

A Mano

This fine Italian restaurant in Fairmount prepares impressive house-made pasta courses. A Sicilian wine, such as grillo or catarratto, will do the food justice.

Pietramala

This critically acclaimed vegan BYOB offers dishes such as fire-roasted delicata squash or escarole salad with fennel and fermented ramps. The wine-friendly flavors pair with just about anything.

Buna Cafe

West Philly’s reputable Ethiopian cuisine shines at this beloved BYOB. Scoop up Buna’s excellent doro wat with injera as you sip a Spanish red from Ribera del Duero, or a Rioja blanco.

A woman in a black dress throws her hands out wide over a spread of food, including large crab legs and eggs.
Chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon at Kalaya.

A close-up on a bowl of udon noodles, displayed next to an assortment of vegetables and sliced meats.
Sukiyaki udon with rib-eye at Binchoyaki.

SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA

Most Californians can pinpoint Sacramento on a map, if only from elementary school class trips to see the state capitol. For many California residents, it remains a drive-through city, a place for a bathroom break on the way from San Francisco to Lake Tahoe, or a spot to sleep on the long drive north toward thickets of towering redwoods. But the view of the city as it flies by a car window can’t do justice to one of the most exciting dining towns on the map.

Blanketed by tranquil rice paddies, neat almond orchards, and some of America’s strongest wine regions and agricultural areas, Sacramento is in the midst of a culinary revival, especially since setting up a restaurant here is relatively affordable compared to nearby San Francisco. Downtown, step inside an old-school diner reinvigorated by a beloved local chef or slam a couple of slices of ’za in a punk rock shop run by a former fine dining chef. There’s top-notch ramen; a boisterous, interactive Michelin-starred restaurant expanded in a new space; and a handful of restaurants breathing new life into the city’s historic Japantown. A pit stop isn’t nearly enough to taste it all. — Lauren Saria

Read more about Sacramento’s revived Japantown

Hands hold a bowl with a sandwich, sliced in half to reveal a boiled egg, scrambled eggs, and fixings. 
Egg salad sandwich at Southside Super.

Eat This

Jimboy’s Tacos are the stuff of NorCal fast-food legend. The grilled, Parmesan-dusted tacos are so popular, there’s even a vegan version in downtown Sacramento.

Visit This

East Sacramento grocery store Corti Brothers was once a destination for Alice Waters and Ruth Reichl, an early supplier on the West Coast for at-the-time rare ingredients like Italian Parmesan.

Try This

A Merlino’s freeze is like the citrusy child of shave ice and sorbet. Though the original shop closed, they’re available at Sutter Health Park, home of the River Cats, and other local shops.

Two people sit in outdoor chairs outside a restaurant with the name Southside Super etched on the window.
Phuong Tran and Seoyeon Oh at Southside Super.

A vendor scoops shrimp from a pot.
Brown brine shrimp make a bright filling at Acarajé da Cira.

SALVADOR, BRAZIL

Often called the Black Rome for its central role in the Afro Brazilian community, Salvador brought in waves of travelers in 2023 with its mix of colonial architecture, palm-laden beaches, and cozinha Baiana (the cuisine of the Bahia state), which factored heavily into the country’s overall tourism rebound. As you walk the city’s cobblestone streets, the sounds of drums emanate from capoeira circles and street vendors perfume the air with fried snacks, all evidence that the former capital of Brazil, including the UNESCO World Heritage Site at its core, is experiencing a renaissance.

Akin to New Orleans in its transatlantic culinary layers, Salvador’s food combines Portuguese cooking methods, Indigenous resources like cassava and seafood, and ingredients like okra brought by enslaved Africans. As Afro Brazilians fight for greater visibility on the national level, Salvador’s chefs build on the city’s roots, including the foods of Candomblé, a local religion that emerged out of a mix of other religions from West Africa.

A fleet of young chefs are now opening independent spots — a big change for a scene once dominated by hospitality groups — and cooperating to share suppliers and promote local ingredients. Restaurants have joined the decades-long redevelopment of the historic center (including a renewed push by the city government in 2024), but neighborhoods further out such as Rio Vermelho have also gained exciting venues. The city has never felt so effervescent. — Rafael Tonon

Read more about the cuisine of Candomblé

The exterior of a street stall bearing the name “Acarajé da Cira.”
The sunny scene at Acarajé da Cira.

Olha o Acarajé!

A blend of historical foodways, religious practice, and Afro Brazilian pride, acarajés — black-eyed pea fritters — appear on street corners all over town. Here’s what to look for, though you can also just follow vendors’ shouts: “Olha!” (take a look) and “Pode chegar!” (come closer).

Get a taste

Acarajés can be topped with vatapá (spicy shrimp-coconut-peanut paste), caruru (onion-okra paste), salada (onion-tomato-pepper slaw), and glistening brown brine shrimp.

Outfit breakdown

Baianas do acarajé, the city’s iconic female street vendors, often wear striking white outfits. Essential items include the axó (hoop skirt), camino (pants), ojá (headscarf), and elaborate jewelry.

More than a snack

As with other foods associated with specific orixás (deities) in Candomblé religious practice, acarajés are traditionally made as offerings to Oyá/Iansã.

The deep fry

The oil palm came to Brazil alongside enslaved peoples in the 16th century. Today, local trees provide dendê fruit for oil, a key ingredient in many Afro Brazilian dishes like acarajés.

Fritters in a vat of oil.
Black-eyed pea fritters frying at Acarajé da Cira.

A whole grilled fish presented on a wooden platter with sauce. 
Whole grilled grouper at Moutya.

SEYCHELLES

Since Queen Elizabeth II opened the international airport in 1972, Seychelles has seen a steady stream of visitors. The 115-island archipelago stuns tourists (the country’s primary economic driver) with pristine beaches, jungly mountain trails, and scenic villas. Even as some tourism industries faltered the last few years, Seychelles has continued opening new hotels, including a Waldorf Astoria (on a private island) and two others set to debut in 2024.

Though the tropical setting may get lots of attention, Seychelles saves its greatest experiences for the plate. Traditional Seychellois Creole food traces the history of immigrants, enslaved peoples, and laborers from France, India, Madagascar, China, and East Africa (especially Mozambique). On the largest island, Mahé, roadside restaurants, such as the popular Jules Take Away, serve homestyle dishes like octopus kari koko (coconut curry) and grilled fish with lasos piman (hot chile sauce). The ranks of food trucks expand every year; one recent addition at the historic La Plaine St André property sells sublime rougail saucisse (sausage stew), while Any’s Snack & Takeaway in Au Cap serves rotating seafood items like bourzwa griye (grilled snapper) alongside tropical pizzas. Though most of the best Creole meals are outside the resorts, restaurants at newer hotels, like Laïla’s Kafe Kreol and Mango House’s Moutya, make a point to showcase local foods. As tourists return in droves, Seychellois Creole cuisine may become as big a draw as the beaches. — Tyler Zielinski and Steven Rioux

The Many Ways to Slice a Coconut

During the early 20th century, many Seychellois earned their livelihoods from the coconut industry, on nearly 25,000 cultivated acres. Since tourism took off in the 1970s, this labor-intensive industry has subsided, but coconut remains a prominent ingredient.

Kari koko

You’ll find the signature Seychellois Creole coconut curry made with octopus, red snapper, chicken, prawns, or breadfruit.

Coconut oil

Look for local coconut oil, still produced in small quantities, at the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market.

Kat-kat banane

Green bananas and fish are cooked in coconut milk, making use of multiple local resources.

Ladob patat

This hearty dessert is made with sweet potato, coconut milk, nutmeg, vanilla, and sugar.

Takamaka Koko

This local coconut rum can be found in almost every bar in Seychelles.

A chef plates a dish in an outdoor kitchen. 
In action at Moutya’s Creole cooking class.
Octopus tentacles top a pillar of salad ingredients. 
Octopus salad at Moutya.

A spread of dishes on a long table. 
A variety of dishes at Samuay & Sons.

UDON THANI, THAILAND

You no longer have to go to a city like Udon Thani to taste the food of Isan, the agricultural region of northeastern Thailand. Restaurants in global capitals like New York are now slinging Isan-style grilled chicken and pungent som tum. Yet it’s hard to say you’ve really tried Isan food until you’ve trekked to the source, where rice paddies produce the country’s finest grains, foragable herbs sprout from the forests, and spots specializing in larb literally line the highways.

Once known as an R&R getaway for American GIs, Udon Thani has developed a deep food scene over the last decade. It’s home to the requisite legion of Thai street food vendors, but chefs here also build on influences from nearby Laos, and the thriving Vietnamese community supplies impressive banh mi and kai-kata, a fried egg platter supposedly invented for Western soldiers.

After decades of brain drain to Bangkok, the last couple years reversed the flow of creators and chefs, who returned home with renewed interest in their own culinary traditions. Inspired by farm-to-table movements abroad and local luminaries like chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat of Samuay & Sons, Udon Thani’s cooks are reexamining ingredients like aged buffalo meat and forest mushrooms to shape a cuisine full of pride. — Chawadee Nualkhair

Look for This

Pla rah, fish fermented with rice and salt, forms the backbone of northeastern Thai cuisine. For thousands of years, it’s been popular with locals, who once buried it with their dead.

Eat This

Mang mun (glossy ants) cost about $30 per kilogram, making them popular with enterprising farmers trying to make an extra buck. They taste a bit like butter or coconut.

Listen to This

Tales of heartache, tilling the soil, and country life fill mor lum, Isan’s own music style, originally adapted from Laos. Today, it incorporates elements of rap, jazz, and African beats. Click for the full playlist.

Shrimp covered in whispy fried vermicelli noodles, presented with dipping sauce. 
Goong sarong (fried shrimp wrapped in vermicelli).

From above, a stew of large pork belly slices and boiled egg slices, presented with white rice.
Moo palo (Chinese five-spice stew with pork belly).

Slices of poultry leg on a bed of cooked vegetables. 
www.guenterstandl.de
Poultry at Fuchsegg Eco Lodge.

VORARLBERG, AUSTRIA

With record-breaking heat blanketing the world each summer, a wintery Alpine getaway feels more necessary than ever, not only for some skiing but for some hearty comfort food too. The restaurants around resorts in the mountain chain tend to fall into two camps: Traditional huts serving carb-heavy, cheesy, stick-to-your-ribs fuel to get adventurers up and down the slopes, and pricey hot spots like St. Moritz in Switzerland and Megève in France, which import celebrity chefs with foams and tweezers.

But in Vorarlberg, the westernmost state of Austria and the cradle of the Alpine ski industry, a new generation of hoteliers and restaurateurs are doing things their own way. Chefs are opening new concepts, while third-, fourth-, and fifth-generation inn owners are retooling businesses like Rote Wand Gourmet Hotel and Gams 1648, with tasting menus and pizza, respectively. The region’s ethos of artisan craftsmanship is also evident in its kitchens, where self-sufficient chefs forage for produce and utilize wild game from the mountains and lakes. Across the board, they’re diversifying the region’s culinary traditions with contemporary, ingredient-driven, and sustainable menus, making food they (and visitors) really want to eat. — Michelle Tchea

Read more about retro-chic Alpine ski towns

Panna cotta with various toppings, served with a small cup of espresso. 
Pine-tip panna cotta at Restaurant Alpensteakhaus.
Cattle in a sunny mountain pasture. 
www.guenterstandl.de
Cattle grazing in the mountains.

CREDITS

Editorial lead: Nick Mancall-Bitel
Creative director: Nat Belkov
Project manager: Lesley Suter
Designer: Marcello Bevilacqua
Contributors: La Carmina, Laila Hassaballa, Matty Kim, Mariam Nezar, Chawadee Nualkhair, Ernest Owens, Steven Rioux, Lauren Saria, Tuba Şatana, Liliana López Sorzano, Michelle Tchea, Rafael Tonon, Tyler Zielinski
Copy editors: Nadia Q. Ahmad, Amanda Luansing, Catherine Sweet
Fact checker: Kelsey Lannin
Photographers: Yehia El Alaily, Ahmad Altrabolsi, Pamela Angel, Gab Bonghi, Andrew Calisterio, Trece Clothes, Odd Duck, Mohamed Elma’andi, f11photo/Shutterstock, Nadia Gunardisurya, Andreas Haller, High Street Hospitality, Lupi & Iris, Angela Lamprecht, Wes Lewis/Unsplash, Bruno M Photographie/Shutterstock, Brenda Matos, Chawadee Nualkhair, Chitsanupong Pakdeekul/Shutterstock, Mike Prince, Niall Ruddy, Samuay & Sons, Günter Standl, Tippman98x/Shutterstock, Od Urla, Vino Locale Urla, The Vanguard, Tyler Zielinski
Engagement editors: Kaitlin Bray, Frances Dumlao, E Jamar, Mira Milla
Special thanks to: Lille Allen, Monica Burton, Dane McMillan, Lesley Suter, Stephanie Wu, the entire Eater Cities network of managers, editors, and writers

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