Even in an industry so focused on revisiting history, there is seemingly always a lesser-known cocktail waiting to be uncovered—our series on underrated drinks from history is proof of that. But what is, we wondered, the most overrated cocktail? We asked bartenders across the country for their take. Here are five that they think could be knocked down a few pegs.
For Joaquín Simó, “A proper Daiquiri is a miracle of pitch-perfect balance, technique and timing. A Hemingway Daiquiri (twice the rum, no sugar, two types of citrus, a dash of maraschino liqueur, blended with crushed ice) is a master class in storytelling that, sadly, can’t hold up as an actual cocktail.” Between the high amount of rum and the lack of sugar—making the drink fall flat texturally, especially in its typical presentation over crushed ice—the cocktail is way out of balance, he says.
What to have instead: a Hotel Nacional Special. “Forget the Hemingway and look across Havana for a proper Daiquiri riff worth drinking,” says Simo. Essentially a Daiquiri made with apricot brandy and pineapple, the Hotel Nacional Special is a better bet.
“I’m sorry for all that I will offend with this, but equal-parts cocktails are overrated, rarely balanced and just not the vibe,” says Ramsey Musk from Accomplice Bar in Los Angeles. That’s why the Negroni, in its equal-parts classic construction, needs retooling to be good, he says, specifically by increasing the gin and dialing back some of the sweetness.
What to have instead: a Negroni—adjusted. At Accomplice Bar, Musk’s spec for the aperitivo drink ups the gin to one and a half ounces and dials back the vermouth, depending on the brand. It’s a move that’s proved popular at other bars too, like Dante in New York, whose Negroni also ditches the equal-parts construction.
The Ultimate Classics
We’ve conducted blind tastings of 50 different classic cocktails to find the best recipe for each. Here are our favorites.
What Are We Drinking?
More than a dozen top cocktail bars across the country reveal their most popular drink orders.
According to Portland, Oregon, bar owner Jeffrey Morgenthaler, the most overrated cocktail is “a no-brainer.” It’s the Vieux Carré, a mix of rye, Cognac, sweet vermouth, Bénédictine and two types of bitters. It’s also a New Orleans classic. Though beloved in some circles, the cocktail is “a sloppy, unfocused mess in a glass,” as Morgenthaler puts it.
What to have instead: a Cocktail à la Louisiane. Also known as the De La Louisiane and the La Louisiane, this cocktail shares ingredients with the Vieux Carré, keeping the rye, vermouth, Bénédictine and Peychaud’s, while adding absinthe to the mix. In contrast, however, it “has a laser-sharp focus,” Morgenthaler says, “and tastes like an actual cocktail should.”
The Last Word is “endlessly riffable,” says Arvid Brown of Portland, Maine’s Room for Improvement. But that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the best drink. In fact, “almost all those modern riffs are better than the original,” says Brown, who prefers a Division Bell, Phil Ward’s variation that swaps the gin for mezcal and green Chartreuse for Aperol.
What to have instead: a Nuclear Daiquiri. “Personally, if I want something lime-y with green Chartreuse, I’d much rather have a Nuclear Daiquiri,” says Brown. The cult-favorite cocktail adds the liqueur and falernum to the rum classic; Room for Improvement’s version subs in génépy.
By far the most-cited drink by surveyed bartenders, the Aviation may possibly be the most hated of them all. For Erin Ashford, co-owner of Holiday in Austin, Texas, the cocktail is “too high-toned and sharp in a way that almost feels artificial.” Others say it’s a difficult cocktail to get right. “The margin of error for this drink is so narrow you either end up with an imbalanced sour mess or Dial Antibacterial [soap],” explains Jackson Mercier, bar manager at Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge in Milwaukee. Plus, the drink requires having crème de violette on hand—not exactly the most versatile liqueur, which some describe as medicinal. “Every time I try [an Aviation], I’m reminded of the chewable vitamins I had as a kid,” says Jeremy Bro of Portland, Oregon’s Scotch Lodge.
What to have instead: a Last Word or South Side. Unlike Brown, Mercier recommends a Last Word. “A Last Word scratches so many of the itches that would lead you to an Aviation,” says Mercier. “I like gin—Last Word. I want a tart cocktail—Last Word. I want a cocktail with maraschino in it—Last Word. I want something that has an herbal or floral flavor—congratulations, you get a Last Word.” For Ned King, of Gigantic, in Easthampton, Massachusetts, the South Side is a good alternative for “a gentle twist on a traditional gin sour, but much more pleasant.”
