When New Orleans native and Top Chef: Kentucky and Top Chef: All-Stars fan-favorite Nini Nguyen decided to write a cookbook, she knew its recipes would be vibrant and Vietnamese but through the lens of someone who grew up on the Gulf Coast. “It’s things I grew up eating that maybe other Vietnamese people didn’t — Vietnamese with a Louisiana twang,” Nguyen tells Eater.
In Đặc Biệt: An Extra-Special Vietnamese Cookbook, there’s a “recipe for every occasion,” says Nguyen, all with a touch of đặc biệt, or something special — a way to elevate, to make a dish more distinguished. That doesn’t always mean adding a new ingredient, Nguyen says, but rather employing a fresh technique or cooking method. In the book, these little twists include steaming eggs to a jammy consistency instead of hard-boiling them for her version of bắp cải luộc chấm nước mắm trứng (steamed cabbage with fish sauce egg). Sometimes, it does mean adding something luxurious, like topping squid-stuffed pork with a dollop of caviar.
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Like her recipes, Nguyen also has a New Orleans restaurant for every occasion. Born and raised in New Orleans East by Vietnamese immigrants, Nguyen worked as a pastry chef at Coquette on Magazine Street and later at Eleven Madison Park in New York before returning to her hometown a few years ago and launching virtual cooking classes. Now, dining around New Orleans with friends and family is a beloved pastime, navigating time-tested Creole classics, comforting Vietnamese staples, and hot newcomers from her peers. Here are Nguyen’s favorite restaurants, bars, and other dining go-tos around New Orleans.
“This is the place I itch to go. I don’t even always eat when I’m there, I just want to be there, visit with friends. I get the sausage, egg, and banana peppers on a biscuit. If I’m feeling really indulgent, the fried chicken biscuit. And the crispy rice salad is a delicious funky treat.”
“The spot outside Hong Kong Market, that place is great. I also like what Banh Mi Boys are doing — it’s kind of in the essence of my book. For traditional banh mi, it would be Mr. Bubbles. For nontraditional, it would be Banh Mi Boys.”
“I was just here last night with a group. It’s the best for that, because you can do a bunch of things family style, or you can do the Feed Me menu for $67 per person. That’s a great deal for a delicious steak dinner.”
My favorite martini in the city is Bouligny Tavern’s. I get a martini and an order of fries. Their garnish is so delicious — it’s a salted anchovy stuffed inside an olive and a Spanish-style pickled pepper.”
Pho Bang (Gretna) for pho
“Comfort food for me is Vietnamese food. If I’m ever traveling, I always crave pho, and as soon as I get home I get a bowl of pho at Pho Bang on the West Bank Expressway — I don’t go to the one on Manhattan Boulevard anymore. That’s my comfort food for sure.”
“The spicy shrimp noodles at Peche is one of my favorite dishes in the city. And the specials — whatever’s seasonal, I just get it and I’m always happy. And I feel like no one really talks about it, but GW Fins is so low-key good. Those biscuits!”
“What I like about Sidecar is that it has a great variety of oysters from all over, but also a great variety of local oysters, which sometimes get a bad rap. It’s just a cool vibe. I like to be in air-conditioning this time of year, but for me, this is the place I love to go in the spring and fall.”
“Any morning that I don’t want to make coffee I get one at Bearcat. They have delicious coffee, it’s the best cup of coffee on my side of town. If I’m downtown, I’m getting my coffee at Pond in Small Mart and a pastry at Ayu. But Uptown, I’m getting my coffee at Bearcat and a cookie or a slice of chocolate cake at Levee.”
“If I want ice cream I’m going to Piccola. They have this lychee flavor that’s so good. I’m also a hazelnut girl. It’s the most intensely flavored ice cream in the city.”
Cure for cocktails
“I’m a regular at Cure. I love Jewel of the South as well, but Cure is so close to my house. So if you were ever to find me out drinking it would be there. It’s the original.”
Saint-Germain for a tasting menu splurge
“I’ve loved every meal I’ve ever had at Saint-Germain. As a chef, with every dish [I have there] I’m like ‘Damn, how did I not think of this?’ It’s one of the only places that makes me feel envious of the chefs’ creativity. I love everything those guys are doing.”
Hot Stuff for (Western) comfort food
“If I want a Western comfort food, something other than Vietnamese — which is rare — I’m going to Hot Stuff for the meatloaf with mashed potatoes, I’ll text the chef to see if they have it that day. That’s what I want if I’m craving Southern comfort food.”
“I’m a Commander’s Palace girl. I think the desserts are great. They use a lot of local products, and it’s kind of tucked away in this gorgeous neighborhood. It’s worth the travel out of the Quarter.”
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity and brevity.
