Theamsak Leesombutwa
Once known as the site of a U.S. military base during the Vietnam War and today famed for its repository of Bronze Age artifacts, Udon Thani at first appears to be a sleepy hamlet of old-timey shophouse restaurants, Vietnamese food vendors, and open-air markets. But Thai food lovers know Udon Thani as the nexus for a nascent food movement championing seasonal ingredients from Thailand’s northeastern Isan region.
Once derided as a cultural backwater, Isan has become home to chefs espousing ingredients and traditions that set them apart from their peers in Central Thailand: funky pla rah (deeply fermented fish sauce), minced meat larbs full of blood and bile, and foraged insects that crown elegant, upscale dishes, and balls of sticky rice to mop up leftover juices. Even at rarefied eateries, an Isan meal reflects the local credo — work hard, play harder — helped along by plenty of shots of lao khao (moonshine). Though the region remains chronically underrated by residents of Bangkok as well as politically frustrated, food is bringing the buzz to Isan.
A principal figure in Isan’s culinary movement, chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat can be found foraging in local forests and cooking up his finds at the famed Samuay & Sons. But he’s not alone; places like Barn-Naa Cafe and Chabaa Barn are also remixing Udon Thani’s classic foods in stylish new surroundings, while popular street vendors like Khao Piak Sen and Aim Aot have evolved to permanent locations and parlayed their loyal fanbases into Michelin recognition.
You could eat well in Thailand without ever leaving Bangkok, but it’s worth making the trek to Udon Thani to see how the Thai countryside thrives through countless bowls of noodles and plates of papaya salad.
Chawadee Nualkhair is a Bangkok-based food writer.
