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Chile’s transition to democracy in 1990 opened the door for tourism into the country and unleashed a surge of wine exports out of it. Lured by enthusiastic tourism campaigns, the first waves of visitors to Santiago encountered a rich Creole cuisine and seafood traditions influenced by the Mapuche and other Indigenous groups. Dishes like cazuela Chilena (meat and vegetable stew), curanto (seafood cooked in a pit oven), and porotos con rienda (a stew of beans, pasta, and chorizo) are based on staple ingredients like corn, potatoes, beans, and merquén (dried, smoked aji peppers). But the country also quickly became famous for its hearty snacks and street food, like chorrillanas (loaded fries), completos (hot dogs), and juicy sandwiches spackled with mayonnaise.
Inspired by culinary revolutions throughout South America, daring, young chefs are redefining the Chilean capital again. Restaurants like Boragó, Ambrosia, and Pulperia Santa Elvira have transformed Santiago into a city for world-class dining. Tasting menus combine modern techniques with classic dishes, highlight the coastline’s bountiful seafood, and refocus on indigenous ingredients used by Native peoples. Santiago’s ways of eating and cooking are evolving like never before.
Whether you’re interested in Santiago’s bistronomy movement, a platter of sublime shellfish from Chile’s lengthy coastline, or an enduring sanguchería (traditional sandwich outpost), you’d be hard-pressed to find a more exciting food city in the Southern Hemisphere.
Bill Esparza is a James Beard Award-winning writer, author of LA Mexicano, and onscreen food television personality covering food in United States and Latin America.
Hillary Eaton is a food & travel writer living between Auckland and Los Angeles. Her work has been featured in Food & Wine, WSJ, Bon Appetit, Los Angeles Times, VICE, Travel + Leisure, and more.
