Rolands Varsbergs
Times are changing in Copenhagen, the gastronomic capital of northern Europe. Chefs from the most influential dining establishments are making moves, opening their own shops, and looking for new inspirations. It’s a natural transition point, as some of the most famous names in the dining scene make way for new projects. In November 2022, after the pandemic dealt an insurmountable financial blow to zero-waste pioneer Amass, the restaurant dropped a bombshell when it abruptly folded. Then the global food world was shocked when René Redzepi announced Noma was also closing by the end of 2024, before staff packed up and left for a pop-up in Kyoto, Japan.
In the midst of all this chaos, the Copenhagen dining scene is flourishing, in many ways by breaking free of the frameworks of Nordic cuisine. Korean, Cantonese, and Japanese flavors fill restaurant kitchens. Chefs continue to find new inspiration in great, local produce, made easier by a generation of skilled farmers in Denmark growing an astonishing array of chile peppers, ginger, lemongrass, and other items. Plus, there seems to be a never-ending demand for new natural wine bars, carefully curated bottle shops, and specialist street food spots.
Copenhagen is still the ultimate food hot spot, with a number of prestigious fine dining venues going strong, plenty of places to try smørrebrød (the open-faced sandwich that is a pillar of Danish culinary heritage), and a constant deluge of excellent eating and drinking experiences.
Anna Norström is a journalist and food writer specializing in covering the Nordic countries, as well as a lecturer on food tourism trends.
